May 12, Back in Abuja

Well, it has been a busy few days, with uncertain internet access, so I haven't been able to write. We left Port Harcourt this past Sunday and flew to Lagos, the largest city in Nigeria at around 17 million. A one hour plane ride, though point to point it was perhaps 5 hours or so, with traffic. Lagos is a city on two islands and the mainland, on the Atlantic Ocean. We stayed in a 'burb called Lekki, near the site of the Nigerian Conservation Federation, where Miriam had some meetings. Our hotel was the Lekki Astoria(!), a comfortable Lebanese owned hotel of 40-50 rooms, with a dining room and bar. And a picture of Barack Obama on the front office wall!

You have not seen traffic like Lagos traffic. Anywhere. And I need to quickly explain that it is not so much self imposed confusion by those on the road, though there is some of that, but the simple fact that the infrastructure cannot be built fast enough to keep up with the expansion of cars and trucks. The main modes of transportation are the car, motorbike, small vans, and lumbering semi's. Not many conventional buses, and no trains. The ability of Nigerians to keep vehicles repaired and drivable is an awesome thing. So there are lots of people, very industrious hardworking people, who have places to go. The island we were on, Victoria Island, is in the process of replacing the 4 lane divided highway presently in place with a 6 or 8 lane limited access highway, and it is actively under construction, and one senses that it will be too crowded the day it opens. Some efforts are being made to improve the flow with traffic lights and bus lanes, but I am sure it has to be really frustrating to city planners. The most common result during really busy times is the practice of making three lanes into four or five. Mary Ann was, at one point, able to reach out the car window and firmly touch the minivan next to us. The vans - did I already write about this? - are amazing things, most commonly VW or Mitsubishi, are 4-5 rows, four people to a row, making for a capacity of 16 or 20 people. The Mitsubishis are smaller than early Chrysler minivans, so you know it is cozy!

Then the motorbikes - 100 - 150 cc engines, 95% made in China or India, with 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 people on board, or more if babies can ride on mama's back, with every conceivable helmet you can think of, or no helmet at all. It is clearly an effective way to improve conditions on the road, though a dangerous one. Many, many people travel by motorbike, and at reasonable rates. A person can stand at the curb, wave down a motorbike, climb on, ride 2-3 miles, hop off, pay 25-50 cents, and go about your business. The return is the same way. It is fast - they go where no car dares to go, most typically down the middle between two rows of cars, and the guy with the bike pays for his trip with a little cash. We have also seen motorbikes used to haul all nature of things - one I would love to have had a movie of was the motorbike with driver and passenger, the passenger holding a 16-20 foot ladder overhead through city streets. Amazing.

And the trucks - tractor trailer trucks, lumbering down the road, old Bedfords from England, M.A.N's from Europe, Macks from US, amazing things with huge loads of all sorts of products. Macks are much preferred - "they are very strong". How they maneuver through the traffic is an amazing thing. I need to get out one day with the sole purpose of getting some pictures for my truck buddies. They also have a tendency to put philosophical phrases on the sides or back, like

Translation: Let others say what they want to, mind your own business and don't worry about it.

And of course, the head is much underrated as a means of transporting things. We have seen amazing loads on heads, no hands(!), down the street. It is pretty efficient, if you think about it - encourages good posture, puts you in the shade, and you can text or talk on the phone at the same time. Lumber, cases of canned goods, firewood, bunches of bananas - you name it.

Will add some more on a different subject soon.